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Knowledge Base

How to Choose a Hair Color System

Choose the color system according to what must change in the starting color. Permanent oxidative systems are used for lasting change and work with the natural base; direct pigments provide pre-formed color without classic oxidative color development; acidic and specialized systems are used for narrower tasks such as toning, camouflage and tonal control.

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Key Point

First decide what must change: the lightness of the natural base, coverage density, only the tone, or visual blending of gray hair. Then choose the chemical type of system. Problems begin when a stylist picks an attractive shade number first and then tries to force the wrong type of color to perform a job it was not designed for.

ARTX: Permanent Ammonia-Based System

ARTX is used for classic permanent oxidative color services. In this type of system, color develops from precursors and couplers in the presence of an oxidizer, while the alkaline environment helps the reaction take place inside the hair.

NATURE: Ammonia-Free System

NATURE is suitable when the stylist chooses a professional ammonia-free color system. Important: “ammonia-free” does not mean “non-oxidative” and does not make NATURE equivalent to a direct pigment.

ACID: System for Controlled Toning

Nirvel ACID is a professional acidic coloring and toning system. Consider it when the main task is tonal direction on an already suitable lightness level rather than aggressive alteration of the natural base. Always select the exact processing mode according to the line instructions.

SILVER: Gray Camouflage and Blending

SILVER is intended for services where the goal is to manage the tone of gray and light hair softly, reduce contrast and create visual gray blending.

Nutre Color: Direct Pigment

Direct dyes are already colored and do not require the classic reaction that creates color from initially colorless precursors. This makes them useful for refreshing tone, intensifying color and creative correction. The result depends strongly on starting lightness and porosity.

Quick Selection Logic

  • You need lasting change to the natural base or dense permanent color: start with ARTX/NATURE.
  • You need tonal control on an already suitable lightness level: consider ACID.
  • You need soft gray blending: consider SILVER.
  • You need to refresh or intensify tone without classic oxidative color development: consider Nutre Color.

Sources and Scientific Basis

  1. A Review of Aspects of Oxidative Hair Dye Chemistry — chemistry of oxidative hair dyes, including a section on direct dyes.
  2. Non-oxidative hair dye products on the European market — study of the composition and classification of non-oxidative/direct hair dyes.